DIESEL Spring/Summer 2025 Runway Show: A Masterclass in Circularity and Distressed Beauty
The DIESEL Spring/Summer 2025 Runway Show, held on 21 September 2024 at Milan Fashion Week, delivered a profound statement on sustainability and the artistry of distress. Creative Director Glenn Martens once again pushed the boundaries of fashion, merging the concepts of beauty and waste in an immersive experience that highlighted DIESEL’s commitment to circularity.
“There is beauty in waste, in what is distressed and destroyed. It’s in the circularity of denim waste, and into the distressing that we build into the collection. This is the disruption of Diesel: we are pushing for circularity in our production as hard as we push the elevation of design,”.
Martens said, underscoring DIESEL’s future-forward vision
The show’s set was a striking visual representation of this philosophy, created from 14,800 kg of denim scraps, emphasizing the brand’s dedication to reusing materials in innovative ways. These scraps will be repurposed for use in the automotive and insulation industries, ensuring the entire show setup has a second life after the runway.
Elevating denim was the central theme of the collection, and Martens delivered this with a mix of innovation and artistry. Denim micro shorts were embroidered with extravagant fringing, while a leather double-breasted jacket was treated to mimic the appearance of denim. Distressed denim jeans with tufted front seams and fringing adorned the runway alongside denim chambray slip dresses, highlighting Martens’ masterful blend of distressed aesthetics and high-end craftsmanship.
The collection also introduced advanced techniques like devoré jacquard, where cotton was burnt away to reveal tulle beneath, creating intentional distressing that looked almost accidental. Prince of Wales checks were printed on PVC, giving way to a mix of traditional and futuristic styles, and these were transformed into bikinis, dresses, and tailoring with extra-long fringing.
Denim experiments were further explored with an artisanal coat made entirely from leftover spools of denim thread, while double loom denim was overdyed to appear like camel. Even the jeans in the collection embraced innovation, with embossed whiskering and a monk’s coat made from 100% recycled cotton from Diesel’s own production waste.
Circularity continued to be a focal point in both the design and materials used. Archival bandana prints were reworked for a series of draped and knotted dresses, while an artisanal jacket constructed from waste yarn created organic, floral-like shapes. The accessories complemented the collection’s theme, with the Play-Double-D bag and TRASH-D bag reimagining Diesel’s signature styles using repurposed materials.
Footwear also showcased Diesel’s inventive edge, with the Lake Platform mules and trompe l’oeil boots appearing like leggings caught in the iconic metal D stiletto. The debut of the Diesel eyewear collection, developed with Luxottica, included intentionally distressed sunglasses, rounding out the show’s bold, futuristic aesthetic.
Glenn Martens’ vision for DIESEL Spring/Summer 2025 is clear: fashion is not just about design but about rethinking production methods, materials, and their place in the world. By pushing for circularity while elevating denim to new heights, DIESEL sets a powerful example for the future of sustainable fashion.
Credits:
Creative Director: Glenn Martens
Styling: Ursina Gysi
Original Soundtrack Composer: Senjan Jansen
Hair: Gary Gill
Make-up: Inge Grognard for @MACcosmetics
Skincare: The Ordinary
Set Design and Art Direction: Sayan Benbady
Casting: Establishment NY
